Fort Union Trading Post

In western North Dakota, right before you cross into Montana, the Yellowstone River joins the Missouri River from the south-west. On the journey westward Lewis and Clark passed the Yellowstone by, following Thomas Jefferson's order to follow the Missouri to its source. On the return journey Clark led a small exploration down the Yellowstone River, and the entire Corps of Discovery reunited at the confluence with the Missouri.

At that location there are actually a few places to drop in and visit.



At the Missouri-Yellowstone Confluence Interpretive Center there's an overlook where you can see the Yellowstone River come in straight towards you, joining the Missouri River flowing from right to left.

Fort Buford State Historic Site is located only half a mile eastward from that spot. It was a very large army post, established to protect settlers, and became a major supply depot for military field operations. It is perhaps most well known for being the place where Sitting Bull surrendered to the US Army. Managed by the state of North Dakota, the site has not received the attention that Fort Union Trading Post has, and has not been restored to nearly the same extent.

Located another two or three miles eastward, Fort Union Trading Post is a National Historic Site managed by the National Park Service. The fort was not a military site; it was a privately built and operated center for trading with the indigenous people of the region for furs.



It also was enormous.



Over the front gate.



A window next to the gate was used when the gates were shut.



A fur press was situated right outside of the front gate. Not far below was a dock from which goods were loaded onto boats traveling up and down the Missouri River. The Missouri has shifted away from the fort since that time. Here is a photo taken with my back to the gate, the channel cut by the Missouri is the the black strip that appears from side to side.

God is Great, Beer is Good, People are Crazy

If you're from North Dakota, then turning on the radio and hearing a song with this title wouldn't surprise you in the least, but for someone from the Northeast it's a bit of an experience.

I started the day in South Sioux City, IA. I wanted to see the Missouri River that Lewis and Clark saw, and was told that starting from Ponca State Park and continuing upstream there's a 59 mile stretch of river that was never channelized. The Missouri River from that point downstream would - I daresay - be completely unrecognizable to anyone who saw it during the frontier era. Its course has been straightened, and the river bottom has been cleared, all to make the river navigable.



That's a the view upstream from Ponca State Park, located on the Nebraska side of that states' border with South Dakota. Notice the meandering path of the river; downstream the character of the Missouri River is much different, due to channelization.

I was told that if I drove ten minutes upstream, I would find a scenic overlook right before the bridge to Vermillion, SD. Here are a couple of photos from that spot, again facing upstream.





This time notice the sandbars. Lewis and Clark had to deal with these obstacles, plus clumps of driftwood, logs racing downstream and sawyers, which were parts of trees (or whole trees) rooted in the river bottom.

Next I would like to see a few sites in the vicinity of Bismarck, ND. The best route took me a bit away from the Missouri, but then again I was driving a car, not paddling a keelboat or pirouge. So I went up I-29, made a left at Fargo, ND onto I-94, and now I'm writing this in Bismarck.

From New York through Ohio the speed limit on interstate highways was 65, in Indiana through Nebraska it was 70. Once you get to South Dakota we bump it up to 75.

The day's journey:




According to Google Maps I drove 530 miles today!

Road Trip - Westbound - Fort Atkinson State Historical Park

On August 3, 1804, Lewis and Clark had their first council with native chiefs on a bluff overlooking the western bank of the Missouri River. For that reason the site was called "Council Bluffs". Present-day Council Bluffs uses that name, but it was established on the Iowa side of the river. William Clark later recommended the site as an excellent location for a fort, and when Congress decided to built a series of trading-posts in the Louisiana Territory that site was among the chosen locations. As it turned out, Fort Atkinson was the only one built and put into use.

After a few decades the fort fell into disuse. Fort Atkinson State Historical Park consists of a (huge) replica of the fort, and a visitors center where the staff is happy to answer questions. I watched the twenty-minute orientation video, and thought that it was pretty thorough. I really learned a lot about what motivated Congress to plan development of the fort system, the trials endured while constructing the fort, events that occurred during the years that it was in use, and how the fort later fell into disuse.

The replica is behind the visitors center, you can take a walk or drive down a very short paved path to see the fort.



The approach to the fort from the visitors center.



Along the inner walls are soldier's barracks and other rooms.



Discipline!



Solitary cells



The shared cell.



The hospital. In front are displayed implements used by doctors at the fort, heaven please help us.



The courtyard.



The powder magazine was situated at the center of the courtyard, as far from the walls as possible. This enhanced soldiers ability to defend it from attack, and protected residents of the fort by distancing their quarters from the magazine. It was the only structure with stone walls. This was required so that it would not be flammable, and so that in event of explosion the stone walls would direct the force of the explosion in an upward direction, away from the walls and its inhabitants.

Road Trip - Westbound - Missouri River Basin Lewis & Clark Visitors Center

Between Kansas City and Sioux City, IA, the course of the Missouri River runs north-south. Following the Missouri any distance by road means taking I-29, which is right next to the eastern bank of that stretch of the river. I've had to cross from one side to the other a few times already, and it has never been a problem; there always seems to be a bridge where you need one.

The Missouri River Basin Lewis & Clark Visitors Center is located in Nebraska City, NE. If you're coming from the Iowa side of the river it's literally one of the first things that you see once you get off of the bridge. There are a few Lewis and Clark visitors centers along the Lower Missouri River, so each one needs to have something unique to offer. The Missouri River Basin visitors center focuses on how the Expedition related to the flora and fauna of the region.

At the entrance to the building there's a replica of the keelboat that was used from St. Louis to Fort Mandan (in today's North Dakota) - there seem to be a small number of similar replicas.



The sail was used when there was a sufficient wind, otherwise oars (seen on the far side) were used. When river conditions did not allow paddling, soldiers stood on the walkways along the inner side and pushed the boat upriver with poles. As a last resort men would have to get out and walk along the shore, pulling on ropes attached to the side of the boat.



On the first floor a tent is set up in the way Lewis and Clark most likely did so. Inside the tent there is an exhibit on each side. On one side the intricate process of preserving new species of animals is illustrated, and on the other side the process of preserving plant species is demonstrated. These preserves were shipped back to Thomas Jefferson from Fort Mandan. Species discovered after the winter at Fort Mandan returned with the expedition in 1806. The thought of Lewis following these procedures in the most distant wilderness is rather mind-boggling, and maybe even a little inspiring.



On the upper floor there are a few more exhibits. Here's an introduction to outdoors skills required to be part of the Corps of Discovery. You're asked to spot deer tracks, guess whether the deer was walking or running, and find scratches left by the bear on a nearby tree (to mark his territory).

Road Trip - Westbound - Fort Osage National Historic Landmark

I wrote about the history in The Treaty of Fort Clark, so I'll just talk about the visit now.

After visiting the Village of Arrow Rock, I followed the lady's advice (referring to the GPS navigator) and took Route 24 westward to Fort Osage National Historic Landmark. Route 24 goes through a number of towns with populations ranging from 50 to 600, following the path of the Missouri River much more closely than I-70. The sites that I'm visiting are along the Missouri River, so that somewhat slower route turned out to be a more direct one.

The staff there were very knowledgeable and happy to help, and I learned a lot while visiting. For a couple of decades following the return of Lewis and Clark to St. Louis, trade with Indians west of the Mississippi River was managed by the U.S. Government, which established a number of trading posts, built forts to protect them and and manned them with soldiers. Trade with indigenous nations was often subsidized, i.e. it was done at a loss to the Government. This was done in order to bring native tribes into the American sphere of influence, as we were competing with the British and Spanish at the time.

There is a visitors center at the entrance, which offers a brief orientation video, and a few exhibits on regional geology, flora and fauna, tribal history and colonial expansion. After exiting the visitor center there's a brief walk to the replica of Fort Osage.


Here's the eastward view from the fort, i.e. looking at the Missouri River downstream


Today's entrance to the fort. When it was in use, the only entrance was from the river, which is on the opposite side of the fort.


Natives brought pelts to this room, were they where appraised, processed and prepared to be shipped.


Directly across the hallway was this room, where the Indians would trade credits (given in return for the furs) for manufactured goods from the east.


At approximately this spot, across the Missouri River from the fort, Lewis and Clark are believed to have camped.


Soldiers and other residents within were greatly outnumbered by the surrounding native tribes, therefore maintaining discipline was of the utmost importance. In the middle of the courtyard stood this whipping post.

Road Trip - Westbound - The Village of Arrow Rock, MO

Arrow Rock is a Missouri River town in the state of Missouri; if you start from St. Louis and head towards Kansas City it's maybe two-thirds of the way there. Its origins are from the days when sons of Daniel Boone started a salt production operation at the location of the nearby Boone's Lick State Historic Site; Arrow Rock was the port town from which salt was shipped down the Missouri. Artisans such as blacksmiths and gunsmiths moved in, as well as physicians, and the town became an important stop for fur traders headed upstream, as well as for travelers along the Santa Fe Trail.

Arrow Rock State Historic Site consists of the restored village of Arrow Rock, plus an excellent visitors center situated at the entrance. The visitors center features a brief orientation video, and very informative exhibits tell the story of early native tribes, the influence of the French and Spanish, the entrance of American settlers led by Daniel Boone and his family, the later development of the town, and its decline after the river's course shifted away from the town, combined with the development of rail transportation.

The Friends of Arrow Rock operate a tram that takes you through the old town for only five dollars. Here are a few pictures from the tour.


The Tavern. You can go in and walk around, and even sit down and order a meal. And be served one. And pay for it.


The River Landing Trail. Goods were brought over this trail to warehouses on the river shore. The Missouri River shifted a mile away from the town, and this ended Arrow Rocks' importance as a stop along the river.


The Calaboose. This is a stone jail, which replaced an earlier one made from logs. Legend has it that the only prisoner ever placed here was a certain drunk, who made such a racket after being locked in here one evening that the townspeople demanded that he be released immediately, which he was.


The Masonic Lodge. There is also a restored Black Masonic Lodge Hall. About a third of Arrow Rock's residents were African American.

Additions to my website

I recently added some important interpretive centers and a state park to the Google Maps in my Lewis and Clark Trail website. The first four are located along the Kansas City - Omaha stretch of the Missouri River, and the final two are in the Columbia River Gorge. Would you please welcome:

Lewis and Clark Visitor Centers-Trail Headquarters Omaha, NE
Missouri River Basin Lewis & Clark Visitors Center Nebraska City, NE
National Frontier Trails Museum Independence, MO
Indian Cave State Park in Nebraska Shubert, NE
Columbia Gorge Interpretive Center Museum Stevenson, WA
Bonneville Lock and Dam Cascade Locks, OR

Lewis and Clark Trail Maps: The Split Into Subgroups

This article has been relocated to http://lewis-clark-trail.us/History/ClarksMap6.php.

Lewis and Clark Trail Maps: The Upper Missouri River

This article has been relocated to http://lewis-clark-trail.us/History/ClarksMap3.php.

An All-Water Route: Outfitters and Guides

President Thomas Jefferson's principal objective in sending the Corps of Discovery to explore the northwest was to find opportunities for new commercial ventures. These could involve trading goods from the United States (as it existed at that time) with native tribes inhabiting the Louisiana Territory and beyond, and it could involve opening up a new route for trading goods with the Far East.

In those days the only way to move large quantities of goods over long distances was by water, so Meriwether Lewis was instructed to seek an all-water route linking the two sides of the continent. Jefferson's instructions read:

"The object of your mission, is to explore the Missouri river, & such principal stream of it, as, by it's course and communication with the waters of the Pacific ocean, whether the Columbia, Oregan, Colorado or any other river may offer the most direct & practicable water communication across this continent for the purposes of commerce."

After setting out, the expedition was to follow the Missouri River to its source (as instructed), cross the Continental Divide and the Rocky Mountains, follow the Clearwater River across the Idaho panhandle to its confluence with the Snake River at the Idaho-Washington border, follow the Snake forty miles or so to its confluence with the Columbia River, and then paddle downstream to the Pacific Ocean.

That being the case, the Lewis and Clark trail today offers many opportunities for those interested in combining historical curiosity with an enthusiasm for water sports, particularly fishing. I should talk about which species are popular at different points along the route, but for today I simply want to list the Outfitters and Guides that are referenced on my Google Maps website.

Lower Missouri River

Missouri River Paddling Company Parkville, MO

Upper Missouri River & its Tributaries in Northern Montana

Billingsley Ranch Outfitters Glasgow, MT

Yellowstone River & Southern Montana

Rollin’ Boulder Outfitters McLeod, MT
Bear Paw Outfitters Livingston, MT
The River's Edge Fly Fishing Shop Bozeman, MT
Medicine Lake Outfitters Bozeman, MT

Western Montana

Central Montana Outfitters Great Falls, MT
Beardsley Outfitting Ennis, MT
Carl Mann's Montana Experience Outfitters Stevensville, MT
Redbone Outfitting Corvallis, MT
Osprey Outfitters Guide Service and Fly Shop Hamilton, MT
Blackfoot River Outfitters Missoula, MT
Wapiti Waters Victor, MT

Snake River

Northwest Fishing Guide Service

Lower Columbia River & its Tributaries

Mid Columbia River Guide Service Milton-Freewater, OR
Adventure Fishing Klickitat, WA
Young's Fishing Service The Dalles, OR
Dennis Pratt's Guide Service Battle Ground, WA
Lucky's Guide Service Vancouver, WA
Portland Kayak Company Portland, OR
Columbia River Fishing Guide Woodland, WA
Streamside Fishing Guide Service Forest Grove, OR

The Treaty of Fort Clark

This article has been relocated to http://lewis-clark-trail.us/History/treaty-of-fort-clark.php.

The Confluence of the Yellowstone and Missouri Rivers

This article has been relocated to http://lewis-clark-trail.us/History/yellowstone-missouri-confluence.php.

Bad Humor Island in South Dakota

This article has been relocated to http://lewis-clark-trail.us/History/bad-humor-island-s-dakota.php.

The Big Muddy National Fish and Wildlife Refuge

The Missouri River is nicknamed "Big Muddy" because of the high silt content. Mark Twain once famously described the Missouri as being “too thick to drink and too thin to plow”.

The Big Muddy National Fish and Wildlife Refuge is actually a series of small units in the state of Missouri, located along the entire stretch of river between St. Louis and Kansas City. The units are named after towns that once flourished, pioneers, or interesting facts or landmarks along the route.

Here is a list of units located close to the shoreline, from East to West. Each link takes you to a Google Map showing the location of that unit, along with a brief description and a link to the official site.

Boone's Crossing Unit
St. Aubert Island Unit
Jameson Island Unit
Lisbon Bottoms Unit
Overton Bottoms North Unit
Baltimore Bottom Unit
Jackass Bend Unit
Cranberry Bend Unit

For more things to do and places to stay in Missouri

The Lewis and Clark Trail Today: Eastern Missouri
The Lewis and Clark Trail Today: Western Missouri

Fort Benton, Montana

This article has been relocated to http://lewis-clark-trail.us/History/fort-benton-montana.php.

The Missouri National Recreational River

This article has been relocated to http://lewis-clark-trail.us/History/missouri-national-recreational-river.php.

Honey Creek Conservation Area in Northwest Missouri

On July 8, 1804, the Lewis and Clark Expedition camped on an island where the Nodaway River joins the Missouri River from the north (look at the upper-left corner on this map). Clark noted in his journal that Nodaway Island was the largest that he had seen so far, and the Captains always preferred to make camp on islands for the security that they provide.

The next overland expedition from St. Louis to the mouth of the Columbia River was the Astor Expedition of 1810-1812, and they made winter camp at Nodaway Island, in accordance with Lewis and Clark's recommendation.

The ever-shifting Missouri River has not left us a trace of this island, but you can gain an appreciation for what this region has to offer by visiting the Honey Creek Conservation Area, located a few miles northwest of St. Joseph, MO. This 1,448-acre nature preserve contains a diverse assortment of habitats, including forest and woodland, cropland and grassland. Good fishing and camping opportunities are provided along 1/2 mile of Nodaway River frontage on the southwest corner of the area, and multi-use trails are open to bicycling, horses and horseback riding.

Located in the same vicinity is the Worthwine Island Conservation Area, also managed by the Missouri Department of Conservation.

Home Page
Andrew County, MO
816-271-3100

On Google Maps
Honey Creek Conservation Area

The Keelboat at Lewis and Clark State Park in Iowa

A keelboat and two pirogues were used for the voyage down the Ohio River, down the Mississippi River to the confluence with the Missouri River, and then up the Missouri to the Mandan Villages in present-day North Dakota. The pirogues were flat-bottom paddle boats, while the much larger keelboat could be could be propelled by four methods: rowing, sailing, pushing and pulling. Such vessels were used in the early 1800s to transport cargo over inland waterways.

A full-sized replica of the keelboat used by the Corps of Discovery is featured at Lewis and Clark State Park, located near near Onawa, Iowa, and you are allowed to baord it and climb around.

A prime attraction at Lewis and Clark State Park is the 250 acres of Blue Lake, an "oxbow lake" formed from waters cut off from the main current of the Missouri River. There's a fine beach for sunbathing and swimming, and two boat ramps are available for access to the lake, with no restrictions placed on motor size. There are 112 campsites along the lakeshore, 100 with standard electrical hookups and 12 with full hook-up.

Home Page
21914 Park Loop
Onawa, IA 51040
712-423-2829

On Google Maps
Lewis and Clark State Park

Find more things to do and places to stay in Iowa and Nebraska
The Lewis and Clark Trail Today: Reaching the Historical Platte River

A canoe trip on the Upper Missouri River

The Toronto edition of The Star published an article today recounting a guided canoe trip through the Wild and Scenic portion of the Upper Missouri River in north-central Montana. This stretch of the Missouri has remained largely untouched since the Lewis and Clark Expedition passed through, and as such affords an excellent opportunity to attain the same sense of awe that those explorers experienced. A prime attraction on this journey are the White Cliffs of the Missouri. You can find photos of the White Cliffs, with relevant Lewis and Clark history, over here: Lewis & Clark Expedition—The White Cliffs of the Missouri

Original article: Upper Missouri River pathway to adventure

Guide service mentioned in the article: Missouri River Canoe Company

Waubonsie State Park in Iowa

Waubonsie State Park is located in the Loess Hills, a landform found in only two places in the world: Along the Missouri River in Iowa and Missouri, and in Shaanxi, China. The Loess Hills are the product of sand, silt and clay sediments which were carried by winds and deposited when these winds encountered steep hill slopes. This type of soil is known colloquially as "sugar clay" because it can be extremely hard when dry, but loses all cohesion when wet. The depth of this drift layer is often greater than ninety feet.

Waubonsie State Park contains seven miles of foot trails and eight miles of equestrian trails winding along windswept ridges down into gorges and valleys. The Sunset Ridge Interpretive Trail provides the visitor with a chance to learn about the park's plants and trees, as well as enjoy some spectacular views. The park holds 40 campsites, 24 of which have electrical hookups. The equestrian campground contains 32 campsites.

IA DNR: State Parks,Waubonsie State Park
2585 Waubonsie Park Road
Hamburg, IA 51640
712-382-2786

On Google Maps
Waubonsie State Park