Road Trip - Westbound - Fort Osage National Historic Landmark

I wrote about the history in The Treaty of Fort Clark, so I'll just talk about the visit now.

After visiting the Village of Arrow Rock, I followed the lady's advice (referring to the GPS navigator) and took Route 24 westward to Fort Osage National Historic Landmark. Route 24 goes through a number of towns with populations ranging from 50 to 600, following the path of the Missouri River much more closely than I-70. The sites that I'm visiting are along the Missouri River, so that somewhat slower route turned out to be a more direct one.

The staff there were very knowledgeable and happy to help, and I learned a lot while visiting. For a couple of decades following the return of Lewis and Clark to St. Louis, trade with Indians west of the Mississippi River was managed by the U.S. Government, which established a number of trading posts, built forts to protect them and and manned them with soldiers. Trade with indigenous nations was often subsidized, i.e. it was done at a loss to the Government. This was done in order to bring native tribes into the American sphere of influence, as we were competing with the British and Spanish at the time.

There is a visitors center at the entrance, which offers a brief orientation video, and a few exhibits on regional geology, flora and fauna, tribal history and colonial expansion. After exiting the visitor center there's a brief walk to the replica of Fort Osage.


Here's the eastward view from the fort, i.e. looking at the Missouri River downstream


Today's entrance to the fort. When it was in use, the only entrance was from the river, which is on the opposite side of the fort.


Natives brought pelts to this room, were they where appraised, processed and prepared to be shipped.


Directly across the hallway was this room, where the Indians would trade credits (given in return for the furs) for manufactured goods from the east.


At approximately this spot, across the Missouri River from the fort, Lewis and Clark are believed to have camped.


Soldiers and other residents within were greatly outnumbered by the surrounding native tribes, therefore maintaining discipline was of the utmost importance. In the middle of the courtyard stood this whipping post.

Road Trip - Westbound - The Village of Arrow Rock, MO

Arrow Rock is a Missouri River town in the state of Missouri; if you start from St. Louis and head towards Kansas City it's maybe two-thirds of the way there. Its origins are from the days when sons of Daniel Boone started a salt production operation at the location of the nearby Boone's Lick State Historic Site; Arrow Rock was the port town from which salt was shipped down the Missouri. Artisans such as blacksmiths and gunsmiths moved in, as well as physicians, and the town became an important stop for fur traders headed upstream, as well as for travelers along the Santa Fe Trail.

Arrow Rock State Historic Site consists of the restored village of Arrow Rock, plus an excellent visitors center situated at the entrance. The visitors center features a brief orientation video, and very informative exhibits tell the story of early native tribes, the influence of the French and Spanish, the entrance of American settlers led by Daniel Boone and his family, the later development of the town, and its decline after the river's course shifted away from the town, combined with the development of rail transportation.

The Friends of Arrow Rock operate a tram that takes you through the old town for only five dollars. Here are a few pictures from the tour.


The Tavern. You can go in and walk around, and even sit down and order a meal. And be served one. And pay for it.


The River Landing Trail. Goods were brought over this trail to warehouses on the river shore. The Missouri River shifted a mile away from the town, and this ended Arrow Rocks' importance as a stop along the river.


The Calaboose. This is a stone jail, which replaced an earlier one made from logs. Legend has it that the only prisoner ever placed here was a certain drunk, who made such a racket after being locked in here one evening that the townspeople demanded that he be released immediately, which he was.


The Masonic Lodge. There is also a restored Black Masonic Lodge Hall. About a third of Arrow Rock's residents were African American.

Road Trip - Westbound - Camp River Dubois

Before I begin, I have to apologize to the reader. Traveling from NY State, my first stop was the replica of the Lewis and Clark Expedition's 1803-1804 winter quarters, across the Mississippi from St. Louis. When I arrived, I immediately searched for the camcorder that surely had been packed. I still haven't found it, although a friendly passerby did point out the pair of socks that fell from the suitcase while I was searching through it. I also brought along a digital camera, but relying on the camcorder I didn't think to charge the digital camera battery before setting out this morning.

Bottom line: No images for this blog entry.

Fortunately, the Lewis & Clark State Historic Site - Camp River Dubois in Hartford, IL, is a mainly indoor site (so images aren't needed too badly), with the important exception of the replica of the fort itself.

I walked in expecting to see "another museum", but soon realized that the exhibits there are modern and comprehensive. For those unfamiliar with expedition history there is an excellent video presentation that is given in a small auditorium near the entrance. The staff are knowledgeable and happy to answer questions.

For me the best part of the interpretive center is the full-size replica of the keelboat. I was told that it was built by Butch Bouvier of Iowa, who has built similar replicas for other sites. It's actually half of a keelboat, open along the center lengthwise, so that you can see how it looked on the deck and how the lower deck was packed with provisions for the voyage. Until I saw that replica, I had no appreciation for the tremendous exertion that must have been required to push that huge vessel upstream. Examples of provisions packed, wrapped and waiting to be loaded were set alongside the boat, together with sample lists of goods brought on the voyage. Simply keeping track of all those supplies and instruments must have required a tremendous management effort, along with supervising the unpacking and repacking of those goods in proper order.

The replica of the fort (outside of the museum) is quite realistic-looking, and staff dressed in garments worn during that era wait inside, ready to answer questions. On the return trip I hope to stop there again, in order to take a few photos.

Road Trip Starts Tomorrow

OK, it looks like everything is ready. I set out from Rockland County, NY tomorrow morning, take Interstate 80 to Akron OH, hang a left and get onto I-71, continue down to Columbus OH and get onto I-70 which takes me directly to St. Louis. That should be pretty simple.

The first two sites that I want to see are Lewis & Clark State Historic Site - Camp River Dubois and Arrow Rock State Historic Site.

Camp Dubois is where the Expedition spent the winter of 1803-1804. It's actually in Illinois, right across the Mississippi River from St. Louis. One good reason for choosing that spot was that territory west of the Mississippi had not yet been transferred to the United States. Now there's a replica near the original site.

Arrow Rock is a restored port town on the Missouri River; it is also a National Historic Landmark. It looks like it will be about an hour's drive from St. Louis.

Once I get out there I plan to write about the drive, the places and any interesting people that I should happen to meet. Now that I've procured and learned to use the laptop PC, camcorder and GPS navigator, and subscribed with AT&T for Wi-Fi access at any old McDonald's, Starbucks or Barnes & Noble that I come across, I should be able to upload blog entries and videos as we progress along the trail to the mouth of the Columbia River and back.

Equipment (nothing at all fancy)

Toshiba Satellite A355-S6931 16.0-Inch LaptopGarmin nüvi 760 4.3-Inch Widescreen Bluetooth Portable GPS Automobile NavigatorFlip Ultra Series Camcorder, 60-Minutes (White)

The Treaty of Fort Clark

This article has been relocated to http://lewis-clark-trail.us/History/treaty-of-fort-clark.php.

The Big Muddy National Fish and Wildlife Refuge

The Missouri River is nicknamed "Big Muddy" because of the high silt content. Mark Twain once famously described the Missouri as being “too thick to drink and too thin to plow”.

The Big Muddy National Fish and Wildlife Refuge is actually a series of small units in the state of Missouri, located along the entire stretch of river between St. Louis and Kansas City. The units are named after towns that once flourished, pioneers, or interesting facts or landmarks along the route.

Here is a list of units located close to the shoreline, from East to West. Each link takes you to a Google Map showing the location of that unit, along with a brief description and a link to the official site.

Boone's Crossing Unit
St. Aubert Island Unit
Jameson Island Unit
Lisbon Bottoms Unit
Overton Bottoms North Unit
Baltimore Bottom Unit
Jackass Bend Unit
Cranberry Bend Unit

For more things to do and places to stay in Missouri

The Lewis and Clark Trail Today: Eastern Missouri
The Lewis and Clark Trail Today: Western Missouri

Honey Creek Conservation Area in Northwest Missouri

On July 8, 1804, the Lewis and Clark Expedition camped on an island where the Nodaway River joins the Missouri River from the north (look at the upper-left corner on this map). Clark noted in his journal that Nodaway Island was the largest that he had seen so far, and the Captains always preferred to make camp on islands for the security that they provide.

The next overland expedition from St. Louis to the mouth of the Columbia River was the Astor Expedition of 1810-1812, and they made winter camp at Nodaway Island, in accordance with Lewis and Clark's recommendation.

The ever-shifting Missouri River has not left us a trace of this island, but you can gain an appreciation for what this region has to offer by visiting the Honey Creek Conservation Area, located a few miles northwest of St. Joseph, MO. This 1,448-acre nature preserve contains a diverse assortment of habitats, including forest and woodland, cropland and grassland. Good fishing and camping opportunities are provided along 1/2 mile of Nodaway River frontage on the southwest corner of the area, and multi-use trails are open to bicycling, horses and horseback riding.

Located in the same vicinity is the Worthwine Island Conservation Area, also managed by the Missouri Department of Conservation.

Home Page
Andrew County, MO
816-271-3100

On Google Maps
Honey Creek Conservation Area

Featured Stop: Squaw Creek National Wildlife Refuge

Squaw Creek National Wildlife Refuge is a 7,350-acre refuge located in northwestern Missouri, within the historic Missouri River floodplain. The refuge was established in 1935 as a resting, feeding, and breeding ground for migratory birds and other wildlife that populate a vast wetland basin containing large marshes. The northern section of the refuge includes a portion of the Loess Hills, a unique geologic formation caused by wind deposited soil. This region holds some of the last remnants of native prairie.

The Squaw Creek refuge is located thirty miles north of St. Joseph, MO, a drive of only a few miles from Big Lake State Park, one of northwest Missouri's most popular outdoor recreation areas.

Home Page
P.O. Box 158
Mound City, Missouri 64470
660-442-3187

On Google Maps
Squaw Creek National Wildlife Refuge

Featured Stop: Patee House Museum in St. Joseph, MO

The Patee House in St. Joseph, Missouri, served as the Pony Express headquarters from 1860 to 1861, was occupied by the Union Army during the Civil War, and is where Jesse James was killed by a fellow gang member.

Built by John Patee as a luxury hotel in 1858, the Patee House Museum now features two full floors of exhibits. Featured are artifacts from Jesse James' life and death, and from Frank James and the Ford brothers. Climb aboard an 1860 train and let your kids ride the vintage "Wild Thing" carousel. See the Grand Ballroom where Pony Express riders danced with local girls, and where war trials were held by the Union Army during the Civil War.

Home Page
1202 Penn Street
St. Joseph, MO 64503
(816) 232-8206

On Google Maps
Patee House Museum
Jesse James Home

“First Friday” at Swan Lake National Wildlife Refuge

The Swan Lake National Wildlife Refuge, headquartered in the town of Sumner in north-central Missouri, has announced a schedule of events for its “First Friday”, to be held on Friday, June 5 from 5PM through 9PM. The schedule includes activities such as campfire music, nature walks and horse shoe pitching, with drinks and refreshments being served.

You can view the complete schedule of events (requires the Adobe Reader) here: JuneFlyer .

The Pony Express National Museum

On April 3, 1860, a lone rider left the Pikes Peak Stables in St. Joseph, Missouri. Carrying saddlebags filled with mail, riders traveled 2000 miles to Sacramento, California, racing against nature’s elements and rugged terrain. A portion of the neglected Pikes Peak Stables was saved from total extinction in the 1950s, becoming the Pony Express Museum. The museum underwent a further renovation in 1993 which restored the remaining portion, thereby bringing the stables back to their original size.

At the Pony Express National Museum you can experience state-of-the-art exhibits which convey the need, creation, operation and termination of the historical Pony Express.

Home Page
914 Penn Street
Saint Joseph, MO 64503
1-800-530-5930

On a Google Map
Pony Express National Museum

Weston Bend State Park in Weston Bend, MO

Located on the Missouri River a couple of miles north of Kansas City, the town of Weston credits its early success to tobacco growing and trade. Five tobacco barns remain in Weston Bend State Park to interpret the important role this industry once played here.

A scenic overlook provides visitors with a grand view of the Missouri River and Fort Leavenworth. A hiking trail wanders through the woods and along the bluff's edge, providing magnificent views of the river. Hikers and bicyclists enjoy a three-mile paved loop trail through a hilly wooded area.

Home Page
16600 Hwy. 45 N
Weston Bend, MO 64098
816-640-5443

On Google Maps
Weston Bend State Park

The Jesse James Farm

At the Jesse James Farm in Kearney, Missouri, you can take a tour beginning (and ending) at the James Farm Museum. The museum holds Jesse James and James family artifacts, including three of Jesse James's guns, the boots he was wearing when he was killed, and the James family Bible, which contains hand-written inscriptions. You can also see the remains of Jesse's original tombstone (the base and the foot stone are all that's left).

Home Page
21216 James Farm Road
Kearney, Missouri 64060
(816) 736-8500

On Google Maps
Jesse James Farm

Battle of Lexington State Historic Site

Restored and furnished in the mid-19th century fashion, Oliver Anderson's mansion still displays damage from the shot and shell that hammered it during the Battle of Lexington. Before the Civil War it had been called "the largest and best arranged dwelling house west of St. Louis", but three bloody days in 1861 changed that. The mansion was a fiercely contested prize in a battle between the Union army and the Missouri State Guard, during which the house changed hands three times.

The site offers tours of the 1853 Anderson House, and a visitor center with exhibits and audio-visual programs explaining the battle and its effects on the war.

Home Page
1101 Delaware Street
Lexington, MO 64067
660-259-4654

On Google Maps
Battle of Lexington State Historic Site

Swan Lake National Wildlife Refuge

Located near the confluence of the Grand and Missouri Rivers, Swan Lake National Wildlife Refuge was established in 1937 to provide resting, nesting and feeding areas for waterfowl, primarily ducks. Since then, emphasis has expanded to include the Eastern Prairie Population of Canada geese. The refuge is a main wintering area for Canada geese, with a population numbering between 10,000 and 80,000 annually.

Home Page
16194 Swan Lake Avenue
Sumner, MO 64681
(660) 856-3323

On Google Maps
Swan Lake National Wildlife Refuge

The Historic Daniel Boone Home & Boonesfield Village

The Historic Daniel Boone Home and Boonesfield Village, collectively a registered National Historic Site, are located in Defiance, Missouri. The Boone Home is nearly 200 years old, and even by today's standards is quite large, rising four stories tall.

The Daniel Boone home overlooks the Boonesfield Village, comprised of over a dozen 19th century buildings including a grist mill, the Old Peace Chapel, a schoolhouse and a carpenter’s shop.

There is a separate one hour tour for both the Boone Home and Boonesfield Village.

Home Page
1868 Highway F
Defiance, MO 63341
636-798-2005

On Google Maps
Historic Daniel Boone Home & Boonesfield Village

Featured Stop: Van Meter State Park

The Van Meter State Park features remnants of a Missouri Indian village. A hand-dug earthwork and a few burial mounds are found within park boundaries. The park’s cultural center interprets the region’s Native American history through exhibits and a large mural depicting day-to-day the life among the Missouri Indians.

Park attractions include hiking trails, an 18-acre fishing lake, a campground, a fresh-water marsh, fens and forests. Lofty trees provide shade for picnic sites and two picnic shelters.

Van Meter State Park
32146 N. Hwy. 122
Miami, MO 65344
660-886-7537

Featured Stop: Stump Island Park

Stump Island Park is located on the Missouri River shoreline in Howard County, Missouri. This conservation area is great place to spend an afternoon fishing for catfish, and the park features a concrete boat ramp. Also available are primitive tent camping facilities, a picnic area and a pavilion.

Stump Island Park
Howard County, MO
573-884-6861

Featured Stop: Arrow Rock State Historic Site

Arrow Rock, designated a National Historic Landmark in 1964, is a place where you can enjoy the serenity of an easygoing, quiet village. This once thriving river port is dotted with architectural treasures from the past.

The historic site features a visitor center museum, the Bingham Home, built by Missouri's preeminent artist of the 1800s, and the Huston Tavern, dating back to 1834. The site offers a walking tour which will take you to the old courthouse, a stone jail, a town doctor's home and other historic buildings.

Arrow Rock State Historic Site
P.O. Box 1
Arrow Rock, MO 65320
660-837-3330

Featured Stop: Rock Bridge Memorial State Park

You can see some of Missouri’s finest karst features at Rock Bridge Memorial State Park. The foremost attraction is the rock bridge after which the park is named, and you can also explore its forests, streams and restored grasslands to find more such features.

Picnic sites, a picnic shelter (reservable), and a playground make the park a fine place for family gatherings.

Rock Bridge Memorial State Park
5901 South Hwy. 163
Columbia, MO 65203
573-449-7402